Geography
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1. Geography of Japan
• Japan is an island nation, made up of 6,852 islands in the Pacific Ocean on the eastern coast of the continent of Asia. It is the fourth largest island country globally and the largest in East Asia. Its principal islands are Hokkaido to the north, Kyushu, Honshu, Okinawa, and Shikoku. The remaining islands are remote and much smaller. 66% of Japan is forest, and the landscape is mountainous and rugged. Much of the landscape (73%) is mountainous, its most famous mountain being the iconic Mount Fuji. The population live in the coastal regions, valleys and plains. It also has many large freshwater lakes, the largest being Lake Biwa in the Kansai region and Shiga Prefecture which is 670km2 and has a maximum depth of 104m. The climate is varied with the northern most islands being humid continental, whilst the humid subtropical and tropical rainforest are evident in the south. This supports a diverse flora and fauna environment. Japan has a history of earthquakes and tsunamis due to its location in the north western Ring of Fire made up of multiple tectonic plates. Japan is a narrow country and no point in Japan is more than 150km (93miles) from the sea. The country is made up of 8 regions: Hokkaido, Tohoku, Kanto, Chubu, Kansai, Chugoku, Shkoku, and Kyushu. The regions are divided into several prefectures, except Hokkaido which is also a prefecture in its own right.
2. Japanese Sake and Terroir
• Terroir refers to the environmental conditions, notably soil and climatic conditions, in a specific geographical area. The coming together of the right climate alongside the right soil conditions offers an environment to cultivate high quality sake rice. The terroir will also deliver high quality soft, sweet water, typically low in iron and magnesium, and suitable for producing premium sake. The terroir across Japan differs significantly from north to south, with a much cooler and windy climate to the north, with a warmer more tranquil climate to the south. Sake rice (Sakamai) can be grown in both of these climates, with certain rice types more adept to the harsher conditions in the north. Sake rice grows to a height of around 3 feet, it is therefore important to protect from high winds. As an example, Miyama Nishiki which is more resistant to windy conditions is grown in the north, where as Yamada Nishiki rice at over 3 feet tall, is much more prone to wind and principally grown further south in Hyogo prefecture. Rice in these southern growing regions is planted in areas well sheltered from the winds. The soil for rice cultivation must contain suitable amounts of nutrients, and the crop must be able to cope with differing temperatures.
3. Geographical Indication 地理的表示
• Japan has adopted a geographical indication (GI) system based on the French system of Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (A.O.C) to help define and protect the local methods and traditional production process of Sake across Japan. In 2005, Hakusan, in Ishikawa Prefecture, became the first GI certified Sake, with others following but not for a number of years after. Whilst food products GI is governed by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, Sake is governed by the National tax Agency. GI enables producers to highlight their products as high quality, produced using recognised local products, and in a traditional way. This is intended to help develop brands and demonstarte reliability.
• Japanese Sake GI:
Hakusan GI
Hakusan’s sake is normally rich, full-bodied, and features the strong flavours of the rice. For example, the Junmai-Ginjo-shu and Ginjo-shu both offer a fruity flavour and moderate acidity, with its rich taste. Hakusan City, in Ishikawa Prefecture is located on the alluvial plain of Tedorigawa-river which flows from the sacred mountain Hakusan. It is known to produce excellent spring water. This water contains a lot of calcium and little potassium promoting mild fermentation during the sake brewing process which helps develop the characteristic of rich, full-bodied sake, peculiar to Hakusan.
Hakusan’s sake has been cultivated by history and tradition of “Kikuzake” (chrysanthemum sake, a sake with chrysanthemum petals being floated in a cup ). According to the “Engishiki” which was compiled in the Heian Period and was one of the ceremonial rules, there was a custom to drink Kikuzake in the palace at the time of the Chrysanthemum Festival. Historically, Hakusan sake is mentioned in Ekiken Kaibara’s book “Fuso-kisho” (written in around 1700) which says, “Kashu Tsurugi (now Hakusan City) is located approximately 12 kilometers off from Kanazawa. There is a river flowing in from Hakusan. It is called Tedorigawa-river. Sake is brewed using the water. Sake is brewed using snow-broth. Sake is clear and very delicious. Someone travels around a country and tastes various sake. This is the world’s best sake.”
Sake brewers in the Hakusan area use traditional methods to brew full-bodied sake and to develop products such as Yamahai-jikomi (using the Yamahai brewing method) They also strive to maintain the characteristics of sake and improve the quality launching a local brand “Hakusan-Kikuzake” in 2005.
To use the geographical indication “Hakusan,” it is required to meet the following requirements:
a. Only domestically produced rice (limited to brown rice for brewing with a rating of grade 1 or higher under the Agricultural Products Inspection Act – Act No. 144 of 1951, and the rice-polishing ratio of 70% or less) is used for rice and rice koji.
b.Water collected in Hakusan City, Ishikawa Prefecture.
c. Ingredients for “Sake” stipulated in Item 7 of Article 3 of the Liquor Tax Act are used. Provided, however, that among the ingredients for sake stipulated in Article 2 of the Enforcement Order of the Liquor Tax Act, ingredients other than alcohol (limited to the case in which, among ingredients, the weight of alcohol does not exceed 50% of the weight of rice, including rice for koji) may not be used.
d. Sake manufactured in accordance with the production method of sake stipulated in Item 7 of Article 3 of the Liquor Tax Act (except for the part concerning the sub item c. of the Item 7) in Hakusan City of Ishikawa Prefecture. Provided, however, that the Ekika-jikomi (liquefaction brewing) shall not be made for producing Moromi.
e. Shubo shall be used for brewing.
f. The percentage of use of Koji-mai (rice for koji) shall be 20% or more.
g. If sake is stored during the brewing process, it shall be stored in Hakusan City of Ishikawa Prefecture.
h. Sake shall be filled in the container scheduled to be delivered to consumers in Hakusan City of Ishikawa Prefecture.
Yagamata GI
“Yamagata” sake is best known for its and clear texture. In particular, Junmai-shu and Honjozo-shu of “Yamagata” is rich, delicate, and mild. The Junmai-Daiginjo-shu and Ginjo-shu are very pure due to their character of smooth texture and fruity flavour. Yamagata Prefecture is located in the Japan Sea climate zone, where heavy snow in winter is typical. This climate provides excellent spring water from the mountain range in Yamagata. This water is known for being soft, with low iron content, suitable for sake making. The cold winter temperatures in Yamagata Prefecture reduce the bacteria that might affect good sake production, and ensure the area is suited to long-term, low-temperature fermentation. Yamagata is a good location for making Ginjo-shu.
In Yamagata Prefecture, under the direction of the Yamagata Research Institute of Technology and the Yamagata Prefecture Sake Brewery Association, all sectors have all worked together to deliver programs aimed at developing brewing skills, with a focus on technical skills of filtration, pasteurization, and storage to preserve the distinctive flavour of freshly pressed sake. These techniques have been shared throughout all the breweries in Yamagata. Locally, consumers prefer fruity flavours of sake, such as bananas, Fuji apples, melons, and La France pears all grown in Yamagata. Yamagata Research Institute of Technology has also been conducted to study technologies for sake brewing, especially Ginjo-shu production.
In 1987, in an attempt to improve their brewing skills, sake breweries in Yamagata together with the Yamagata Research Institute of Technology created a Study Group of brewing to provide training focused on the making of Ginjo-shu. Furthermore, in 1981, they launched “Yamagata Sanga” with the aim of developing a Daiginjo-shu representative of Yamagata Prefecture. Since 1985, Daiginjo-shu which passed the most severe quality test with a certification rate of 30% to 40% has been able to sold under the unified brand name Yamagata Sanga.
To use the geographical indication “Yamagata”, it shall satisfy the following conditions:
a. Rice and rice koji should be grown Japan.
b. Only water originated in Yamagata Prefecture is used to brew “Yamagata”.
c. Only the materials for seishu specified in Article 3-7 of the Liquor Tax Act (Act No.6 of 1953)are used. However, except for alcohol, seishu materials that are specified in Article 2 of the Ordinance for Enforcement of the Liquor Tax Act cannot be used (alcohol can be used only in cases where the weight of alcohol used does not exceed 50% of the weight of rice used as material (including rice for making koji)).
d. Yamagata must be produced in Yamagata Prefecture by the seishu production method specified in Article 3-7 of the Liquor Tax Act.
e. In the seishu making process, “Yamagata” must be stored within Yamagata Prefecture.
f. Yamagata must be bottled in Yamagata Prefecture for delivery to consumers.
Nadagogo GI
Sake made in Nadagogo (meaning "five villages of Nada") is known for its taste and the length on the palate. Particularly, sake that has been stored until autumn has a good flavour but with a mild taste. The Junmai-Ginjo-shu and Ginjo-shu both offer a combination of a fruity flavour and mild taste.
Nadagogo is a collective term for the villages of Nishigo, Mikagego, Uozakigo, Nishinomiyago and Imazugo, and is a long belt-like area stretching east to west, located against the Rokko-renpo (Rokko mountain range) in the north and Osaka Bay in the south. "Nadagogo" in these GI Production Standards refers specifically to the Nada Ward and Higashinada Ward of Kobe City, plus Ashiya City and Nishinomiya City in Hyogo Prefecture.
The climate is very suited to cold weather brewing (Kanzukuri), with winter winds from the western Akashi Strait descending from the Rokko mountain range. On the steep slopes of mountains, there are nine fast flowing streams, which, in the past, facilitated production of high-quality white rice by polishing using a waterwheel. Furthermore, Miyamizu (Miya-water) spring water flows from the mountains, which whilst hard, contains adequate minerals such as chlorine and potassium, required for yeast growth. The low iron content ensures little of no discolouration, the water being perfect for sake making. This water helps develop the high-quality sake with strong taste and good aftertaste. Brewers making sake with the characteristics of Kanzukuri sake pasteurise in April and allow it to age over the spring and summer seasons, which develops the profile of the sake, and offers a balanced and smooth taste. This is called "Akiagari." Of the sake that has been put through the Akiagari process, those that are with temperatures close to outside temperatures and shipped straight out of the storage tank without further heat treatment are called "Hiyaoroshi". This type of sake is traditionally shipped from Nadagogo in and after September.
The characteristics of sake produced in the GI of Nadagogo has been heavily influenced by Tamba Toji (the master brewers of Tamba). Tamba Toji, along with Nanbu Toji and Echigo Toji, is one of the most famous Toji in Japan. They are technical experts for brewing sake, with skills to bring the best out of the characteristics of rice. In addition to the hands on skills of the Toji who protect the traditional methods, there are numerous technical experts and researchers who have pioneered fermentation techniques to support highly-advanced brewing technology of Tamba Toji.
To use the geographical indication "Nadagogo," it is required to meet the following requirements:
a. Only domestically produced rice (limited to rice with a rating of grade 3 or higher under the Agricultural Products Inspection Act—Act No. 144 of 1951) shall be used for rice and rice-koji.
b. Only water collected in Nadagogo shall be used.
c. Ingredients for "seishu (sake)" stipulated in Item 7 of Article 3 of the Liquor Tax Act shall be used. Provided, however, that among the ingredients for sake stipulated in Article 2 of the Enforcement Order of the Liquor Tax Act, ingredients other than alcohol (limited to the case in which, among ingredients, the weight of alcohol does not exceed 25% of the weight of rice, including rice for koji) shall not be used.
d. Sake shall be produced in the Nadagogo area in accordance with the production method of sake stipulated in Item 7 of Article 3 of the Liquor Tax Act.
e. If sake is stored during the production process, it shall be stored in the Nadagogo area.
f. Sake shall be filled in the container in the Nadagogo area, which is scheduled to be delivered to consumers.
Niigata GI
The sake of Niigata has light and tasteful quality, offering a sweetness with elegant umami, and giving a pleasant aftertaste. Sake of this style is called light-bodied sake.
Niigata Prefecture is located close to the centre of the Sea of Japan coast in Honshu, with the Asahi, Iide, and Echigo Mountains on the east, and Mt. Myokosan on the west. There are abundant water resources from many rivers, including the Shinano and Agano rivers, where the water quality is naturally soft. Despite the snowfall and short light hours in winter in Niigata Prefecture, temperatures do not get that low even when its severely cold, and the temperature difference between day and night is small. This creates the ideal environment for the development of high quality koji mold and yeast. Niigata Prefecture also has much fertile land such as the Echigo and Takada Plains. These are some of the richest grain-yielding areas in Japan.
To overcome the problem of decreasing sake brewers that would accelerate the decline of brewing techniques, the Niigata Sake Brewers Association formed the "Niigata Sake Brewing Technology Study Group", and also the first "Niigata Sake School". This enabled them to preserve and teach, as well as develop sake brewing skills for new entrants to sake brewing. Cultural attitudes and traditions were respected and passed on. The sake produced in the region was aimed at the Japanese lifestyle and food culture which had been changing in the modern period, much influenced by western cultures. As a result, the main characteristic of sake brewed in Niigata is light-body, which has achieved name recognition nationally. In order to use geographical indication "Niigata," the following must be met:
a. The only rice and rice koji that can be used must be rice produced in Japan.
b. The only water that can be used must be collected in Niigata Prefecture.
c. The only seishu ingredients that can be used must be the ones specified in the Liquor Tax Act. However, among ingredients of seishu specified in Article 2 of Order for Enforcement of the Liquor Tax Act, nothing other than alcohol (limited to the case that alcohol is used when the weight of alcohol does not exceed 50% of the weight of rice (including koji)) can be used.
d. Sake must be brewed, stored, and bottled in Niigata Prefecture during the whole process.
MIE GI
The sake of Mie has warm taste and mellow taste, with a smooth texture that gives rich flavour, however, both the sweetness and bitterness is mild ensuring a warm experience. Its fresh and with a gentle acidic style. The sake is excellent with low-fat or simple foods such as fish and shellfish and highlights the taste of the food as their umami blends.
Located on the eastern side of Kii Peninsular, Mie Prefecture is in the centre of the Japanese archipelago and surrounded by mountains over 1,000 meters high. These include the Kii Mountains and Suzuka Mountains which run from the north to the west, and the prefecture faces Ise Bay and the Pacific Ocean from the east to the south. Due to its location in close proximity to the sea, sake from Miw has developed as one that goes well with such rich seafood.
The summer climate is mild with the Kuroshio current flowing in the Pacific Ocean, but is cold in winter due to dry and chilly winds. These windsa re known as the “Suzuka downdraft” and the “Nunobiki downdraft,” and come in from the northeast over the Kii and Suzaka Mountains. Accumulated snow in the Suzuka Mountains and rainwater that falls in the Kii Mountains, supply the Mie Prefecture with excellent water for brewing. These climate and rich water resources contribute to the warm and rich quality of sake in Mie.
The Ise Shrine is located in Mie, and has attracted many worshippers from all over Japan since the Edo era, often referred to as the “pilgrimage to Ise.” Sake was used to welcome worshippers, and sake-making became popular in Mie.
More recently, research activity is aimed at the development of original sake yeast. The Mie Prefecture Industrial Research Institute provides the resources for this work. In order to use geographical indication "MIE", the following must be met:
a. Only domestically produced rice, which is limited to the grade 3 or higher rating under the Agricultural Products Inspection Act – Act No. 144 of 1951, is used for rice and rice koji.
b. Only water collected in Mie Prefecture is used to brew “Mie”.
c. Only ingredients for “Sake” stipulated in Article 3-7 of the Liquor Tax Act (Act No. 6 of 1953) are used. However, among the ingredients for sake stipulated in Article 2 of the Enforcement Order of the Liquor Tax Act, ingredients other than alcohol, which is limited in the case where the weight of alcohol does not exceed 10% of the weight of rice, including rice koji, among ingredients, shall not be used.
d. Sake manufactured in accordance with the production method of sake stipulated in Article 3-7 of the Liquor Tax Act in Mie Prefecture.
e. Sake must satisfy the requirement for manufacturing method quality specified in the right-side column of the table in paragraph 1 of the Labelling Standards of Seishu Manufacturing Method Quality (Public notice No. 8 of November 1989 from the National Tax Agency).
f. In the process of sake brewing, sake must be stored within Mie Prefecture.
g. Bottling shall be completed with containers planned to be delivered to consumers within Mie Prefecture.
| Geographical Indication | 山形:(Yamagata) |
| Designation Date | December, 2016 |
| Ingredients and Rule | Rice koji rice must be made in Japan. Water collected in Yamagata prefecture is used. No sugar is used as ingredient. Must be produced, stored and bottled in Yamagata prefecture. |
| Climate and landscape | In Yamagata prefecture, it snows heavily in winter. Therefore, melted snow become excellent underground water
in the mountain ranges of Yamagata. The water in Yamagata is soft water and is suitable for sake making.This water contributes directly to its “clear taste” by making advantage of it as brewing water. In addition, the bitter winter cold of Yamagata prefecture is suited to inhibiting the growth of undesirable microorganisms and conducive to long-term, low-temperature fermentation which is important especially Ginjo-shu brewing. For these reasons Yamagata is one of a most ideal place for brewing Ginjo-shu. Within the prefecture, under the leadership of the Yamagata Research Institute of Technology and the Yamagata Sake maker’s Association,the effort was taken to develop human resource and to improve brewing techniques. This has raised the overall quality of sake produced in this region and has contributed to creating soft and clear taste, which are the specific properties of Yamagata sake. |
| Typical Taste | Yamagata sake generally has a silky and clear taste. Jummai-shu and Honjozo-shu of “Yamagata” are characterized by their rich, full-bodied yet gentle characteristics with a harmony of acidity and umami. The Jummai-ginjo-shu and Ginjo-shu have clear taste due to smooth texture and the fruity flavor, which is reminiscent of bananas, and other fruits grown in Yamagata prefecture such as apples, melons, and La France pears. These characteristics contribute to the clear taste |
| Control Body Address | Yamagata prefecture, Yamagata-city, Midori-town, 1-7-46 |
| Company Website | https://yamagata-sake.or.jp/ |
| Geographical Indication | 山形:(Yamagata) |
| Designation Date | December, 2016 |
| Ingredients and Rule | Rice koji rice must be made in Japan. Water collected in Yamagata prefecture is used. No sugar is used as ingredient. Must be produced, stored and bottled in Yamagata prefecture. |
| Climate and landscape | In Yamagata prefecture, it snows heavily in winter. Therefore, melted snow become excellent underground water
in the mountain ranges of Yamagata. The water in Yamagata is soft water and is suitable for sake making.This water contributes directly to its “clear taste” by making advantage of it as brewing water. In addition, the bitter winter cold of Yamagata prefecture is suited to inhibiting the growth of undesirable microorganisms and conducive to long-term, low-temperature fermentation which is important especially Ginjo-shu brewing. For these reasons Yamagata is one of a most ideal place for brewing Ginjo-shu. Within the prefecture, under the leadership of the Yamagata Research Institute of Technology and the Yamagata Sake maker’s Association,the effort was taken to develop human resource and to improve brewing techniques. This has raised the overall quality of sake produced in this region and has contributed to creating soft and clear taste, which are the specific properties of Yamagata sake. |
| Typical Taste | Yamagata sake generally has a silky and clear taste. Jummai-shu and Honjozo-shu of “Yamagata” are characterized by their rich, full-bodied yet gentle characteristics with a harmony of acidity and umami. The Jummai-ginjo-shu and Ginjo-shu have clear taste due to smooth texture and the fruity flavor, which is reminiscent of bananas, and other fruits grown in Yamagata prefecture such as apples, melons, and La France pears. These characteristics contribute to the clear taste |
| Control Body Address | Yamagata prefecture, Yamagata-city, Midori-town, 1-7-46 |
| Company Website | https://yamagata-sake.or.jp/ |